Rope solo devices.
Rope solo devices This is one reason conventional fall-arrest devices haven’t become hugely popular for top rope soloing. Most of the rocker devices on the market are designed for industrial rope access and have been designed to work on, and tested with, ropes of 10. Works great, and engages immediately when loaded. It performs better with thicker ropes (at least 10mm), but engages well regardless as long as you’re within the tolerances the manufacturer states. Jul 12, 2023 · Because of the lack of actual rope solo devices many climbers including myself have tryed using a Wild Country Revo as a "replacement" for the well known and trusted Silent Partner. Check out our universal fitting neck lanyard for top rope soloing - no modifications needed to pair with your TRS devices! Jun 9, 2015 · 8. The Cinch or other Grigri like devices are popular but tend to require to much fiddling to get the rope to feed for my taste. Oct 7, 2017 · Find the middle of my rope (a 9. Self belay will be for Top Rope Solo, Aid solo, maybe an ice route or two. Apr 12, 2021 · This video provides instruction in how to rope solo. The ones that do (manufacturers of solo-belay devices) caution strongly against certain things and publish elaborate guidelines for the proper use of those devices. Check out the Petzl ASAP, a well-regarded fall arrest device: Jan 20, 2014 · Solo-toproping techniques vary mainly in their back-up methods. The teeth of these other devices can be rough on your rope. That said, compared to a Grigri it's easier to misuse it while lead belaying and I never lend mine to people who belay me. But if you're doing normal top rope climbing, your belayer has a belay device, and that's it, no backup. Wren's solo-aid, soloist, or silent partner. It is worth noting that the shunt has to invert for this to happen. I prefer my Soloist because I watched my bro go inverted during a lead fall on overhanging terrain. If this happens with a toothed device you could shred the sheath of your rope. Or stick to aid and get the solo-aid. Moved Permanently. Ben Mahaffey · Jan 26, 2010 · Aug 19, 2013 · This setup feeds incredibly smoothly and is worry-free. 1). I hadn’t tied a backup knot. For ascent, it just follows along with you, no need to pull it by hand or pull the rope through, such as if you used a belay device you'd have to pull the rope through. Feb 19, 2021 · Gstring Climbing Grips Grigri lead rope solo Grigri hack Gstring Classics Gstring PROs RipCord RollBar adjusting difficulty hangboard lead rope-solo strength training 3D-Sling Chalkbag Chris Webb Parsons Gallows Gstring PRO Hanchor Lead Rope Solo Mt. The rope is tied around a drum via a clove hitch. If you are serious about safely rope soloing, then I would recommend the devices specifically designed for the, i. Wrong. Lukasz Dudek sent a wildly overhanging 14b multipitch in the alps LRS style. Any significant rope slippage can shock-load the ascender and drop you lower on the route. Until recently I had been climbing Lead Rope Solo since 2012 because I had no one to climb with. I'm wondering why they do this. Step down and the rope should pull through the device at the anchor, then slide the second device up the rope and repeat. The LOV3 can be disconnected from the rope without unclipping the carabiner. Free climbing, it helps to be able to tie an overhand slip with one hand. Make sure that they each independently lock if you pull down on them. Jun 14, 2024 · The Petzl NEOX A new belay device that combines the security of an internal camming mechanism, which pinches the rope, with the ease of a wheel to feed slack. JCS . Mar 2, 2023 · This climbing device is like no other. What is rope soloing? Free soloing is the truest expression of a climber’s freedom, cruising up the rock, alone and unnumbered by safety gadgets. Also they claim with the right rope you don't need a backup knot. ” Clark attempted to wrap the rope around her leg. If you're climbing longer routes, you can carefully stack the rope in a rucksack and climb with it, with the rope feeding directly out of it over your shoulder. Discover Effortless Top Rope Solo Climbing with Our Universal Neck Lanyard Designed for all climber sizes and device types, this lanyard brings simplicity and safety to your fixed line top roping or fix-and-follow multipitch outings. Entsprechend müsst ihr entweder eine Route wählen, bei der ihr zu Fuss den Stand (Umlenker) erreicht oder in der euch eine Person (Familienmitglied, Drittperson im Klettergarten) beim ersten Go im Vorstieg zum Einrichten einmal sichert. May 4, 2023 · There's no denying that the device-managed cache loop method is faster though as it doesn't involve stacking the rope into a backpack every pitch, so I think I'll practice that a bit more to get comfortable implementing it on some of the easier multipitch routes I want to rope solo where the speed is a sizable enough advantage that I'd like to Enhance your top rope solo climbing safety and efficiency with our Universal Top Rope Solo Neck Lanyard—professionally designed for seamless compatibility with all devices and tailored for comfort, it eliminates the DIY hassle, ensuring a perfect fit for every climber on fixed line top roping or fix-and-follow multipit Jun 23, 2020 · Sam Skovgaard wrote: Toothed devices do not chew up your rope. The NEOX looks like the ubiquitous GRIGRI but feels very different to use. ) I used to top rope solo with a Petzl Shunt. Neck loops accomplish this by holding up the top device, then letting gravity keep the lower device from hitting the upper. May 2, 2018 · Connect both devices onto the rope and into your belay loop as shown above. The NEOX was recently launched by Petzl, so we unboxed one as soon as possible and took it for a test drive. 2 mm – dynamic rope EN 892. Dec 1, 2013 · This time I easily reached the crux but, as usual, struggled to get over it. But, it's very quick to remove and reattach to the rope mid-length. To haul, put another small ascender/PCD on the rope, clip a sling to it and use it as a foot stirrup. Apr 12, 2022 · I have the Soloist and my bro has the Silent Partner. Top rope, lead, multi pitch, rope ascension, single-line raps; the device does a lot. 8mm non-dry Mammut Eternity Classic, 60m dynamic rope) and tie a figure 8 on a bight, and clip that onto the anchor. Our team field tested all of these products, climbing big walls in Yosemite and Zion, using them for rescue training on glaciers, and as top-rope solo devices at crags. The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: https://skl. Both times I had to open the cam on the Basic to allow the rope to pass through the device. The other end of the rope is used as a final backup and is attached to the climber's harness. The Taz LOV range offers a straight rope path that allows the device to be attached to a lightly weighted rope. Whatever device you use it should be set up such that a fall will be almost immediately caught, not allowing you to gain speed and impact force. Everest Pocket Rocks Top Rope Solo Trango Vergo adjusting adjusting difficulty. If you can belay on a Grigri, you can belay on an ATC. Going 2 device is the norm for TR solo but for 15ft? You will spend more time changing over than you will climbing. Apr 24, 2025 · 1 Best Rope Solo Devices In Canada Last Updated - 24/04/2025 Our rankings are cleverly generated from the algorithmic analysis of thousands of customer reviews about products, brands, merchant’s customer service levels, popularity trends, and more. PE is ideal (doesn’t break so Mar 12, 2013 · In order to go up/down the opposite side of the roof, I of course had to disconnect and rotate device 180-degrees. I've used this system simply because these are the devices that I have, and it works pretty well. However, they are significantly more clunky. The device is INCREDIBLE for TRS!!! As for LRS, it is slightly better than the Soloist because the rappel with the LOV goes much better and the system for TRS is incredible too! I attach the LOV3 using the Petzl Swivel Open. Mar 6, 2019 · 6) It appears that the end of the cam extends out away from the rope and device a bit more than on the Micro Trax. Aug 1, 2022 · This could result in the device failing to grab the rope. I often opt to top rope solo both when working out moves on a project but more commonly on easier routes for some climbing milage. The method requires the solo climber to feed out an estimated length of belay rope so that they can reach their next stance and repeat the process as the rope is difficult to feed through the prusik knot while climbing. Many devices are currently being used but they are all repurposed as soloing devices and used outside the parameters of their design and are usually expressively Whenever I read threads about top rope solo, everyone agrees on using one device to self-belay, and some kind of backup in case your belay device malfunctions. FAR better to use "frame loaded" devices for TR solo rope grab: the Traxions, Rescucender, Petzl or Ushba Basic and the like. The climber arrives at the bottom of the climb and creates an anchor for both up and down forces. Since the rope runs straight through the device, it can easily slide upwards on a lightly tensioned rope. EN 12841 type A, B and C on EN 1891 A ropes of Ø 10 to 11 mm, May 13, 2022 · You can either hang a bag with some items from the end of the rope, or bundle the excess rope together. Jan 7, 2021 · If you’re just starting climbing your best lead rope solo device is a partner. Is the failure mode you mention tipping upside down and the rope pulling through the shunt? If so I think the risk is a bit overblown-if you are tipping upside down whilst shunting you are definitely pushing the envelope! All devices will have vulnerabilities. Any slippage at all will very quickly melt though the thing. Its speed activated locking wheel and the resulting beautiful feeding of the device are the main reasons. It is important that these devices feed smoothly without allowing the accumulation of slack. SAFETY WARNINGS By clicking on the link below, you will be able to view security alerts relating to our products. 5mm range running a Petzl Micro-Traxion. The Grigri is a more versatile device. I know it is not the thing any more, but it was a recommended use at the time. P. Over the past few years, the TAZ LOV has proven to be the device of choice for Top Rope Soloists around the world. Jan 26, 2023 · Hi, I have a question about rope soloing with a Grigri. The document has moved here. Feb 21, 2017 · Finding one of these has become very hard in the last year. No one in their right mind would ever recommend a device for rope soloing anymore, there once was a time where there were probably less than 100 people in the world who rope solo'd they were operating near the cutting edge of the sport and were doing crazy shit with it, this is no longer the case. I would tie a knot once i was up off the deck, and then again every 20’or so. Apr 17, 2020 · It doesn't say anything about TR solo It does say to keep the device under tension while ascending a rope. com Feb 10, 2011 · Bottom line: Don’t rope solo. Others climb with two different devices clipped into two separate ropes. The following parts do not cover specific devices, but rather the qualities of different types of devices, including eccentric, rocker, lever, wedge, as well as Assisted Breaking Devices (ABD), Belay Assist, and non-mechanical. The process is simple; as you climb the rope feeds out from your bag (your spare rope), through your self-feeding solo device, and creates 'climbing rope' for you to progress upwards. You can rappel the pitch without taking it off the rope to reorient it. It depends on a few things IMO. This system is now prerigged with cache loops which allow the device to self-feed. 1. Top rope solo systems rely on progress capture rope grabs, which allow rope to pass easily through one direction and stop rope from going the other. So, properly stack the rope in the backpack and you will be fed properly. I have had multiple people tell me you want to avoid weighting the micro trax for that reason, and one friend even declined using my rope as a fixed line for taking photos (with a micro) when he realized it was a brand new dry treated rope, because he was going to feel so bad about it. Hey fellow climbers! I'm in the midst of deciding between two lightweight progress capture devices: the Petzl Nano Traxion and the Edelrid Spoc. There is currently only one device on the market that is marketed as a lead rope solo device, the El Mudo 2. I placed both devices on the rope and tested that they were engaging properly. Jul 29, 2024 · The flip side to a faster-feeding device is that the Neox lets a little more rope through in a fall—not a huge amount, but usually about 6 to 12 inches. Feb 13, 2025 · Thirty feet up, I leaned back on the rope. Make sure the cams (protection gear you can anchor in crevices) for each device are properly locked onto the rope. Rope loss: do not detach yourself completely from the rope while performing maneuvers, a slight overhang can pendulum the rope out of reach. Increase security in your rope solo climbing with the Flex-Link. Unlike many other soloing devices on the market, the Wren Soloist has a minimal of rope drag, so it's easy to make hard moves without any resistance while pulling the rope through the device. A backup should be used with any TR solo device, including but not limited to the Roll n Lock. It seems like Alex is likely a predecessor to Fabian in a similar GriGri1 with multiple cache loops method. Apr 15, 2024 · The Revo is a relatively well known self-belay device in rope solo circles that is used as a poor man’s Silent Partner - that is, a bi-directional feed device that operates on the basis of centrifugal force/speed lock to stop rope feed. Fast will be expensive: TruBlu or other gym autobelay system Mar 5, 2021 · The lever device can be disabled if it is the second (backup) and runs into the first device. Pete Whittaker sent the Freerider in a day, rope solo style. M. I use two strands of rope for redundancy Aug 13, 2024 · I use the small yellow cord to keep the device upright. 2nd rope as backup - a Dynamic rope which I will either run another device on as back up or tie in bights every 5 or so feet and clip into them (and unclip as I am going up). 0, Revo, Eddy, Grigri 1, Grigri 2, Grigri (2019/3), Grigri Plus, Gob Jun 10, 2024 · The pass-through loop specifically couldn’t be easier to use with any device of your preference, and really speeds up transitions during a top rope solo mileage outing. I used two strands of rope by knotting the rope at the anchor. Attach your solo belay device to the rope, weight the rope end with a light pack or extra gear to help it feed, and clip two locking carabiners through your belay loop. Aug 21, 2020 · Rope Solo im Toprope. Mar 21, 2019 · Also the promoted method uses a backpack for the ropewhich is a lot of weight. I actually prefer rope soloing to climbing with a partner in places like Ouray Ice Park - I get a lot more climbing done and do not get cold standing around. Keeping the two strands separated (with one finger or else by pulling them through two karabiners) while stacking helps a lot. Jun 27, 2012 · Solo Top Rope Self Belay Advice Some progress capture pulleys and ascenders can be rigged to travel along a fixed line providing a self-belay for a solo top rope climbing experience. You can keep the rope in a backpack or at the bely. Adaptable and Shareable: The adjustable neck Sep 22, 2020 · SP is the only device purposefully made for rope solo. Versatile belay and braking device with manual-assisted slide locking, ideal for lead and top rope climbing. The Duck is a single rope device, there was something about using a single rope with a shunt that I didn't like although I don't know why! Nov 23, 2022 · El Mudo ("the mute") out of Mexico by Manuel Larios, is the newest soloing device since the Silent Partner, Soloist, and Solo Aid to be designed specifically for rope soloing. Optimized for Stability: I have lots of solo devices but usually use a grigri. Hmm. The physicality is identical (for top rope belaying. Also, if the system is used properly (no slack build up), the toothed device won't damage your rope - the teeth are only used to initiate the engagement of the cam. Update: This video is far from an instructional work, but please note that the blue rope is oriented incorrectly in the device; the rope should enter and exi - Cam-assisted blocking for a more comfortable belay: when the climber falls or weights the system, the rope tightens, the wheel stops spinning, and the cam pivots to pinch and block the rope; Easy to use: - Easy to install the rope with diagram engraved on the belay device Jan 26, 2010 · Rope Solo devices. A. No need to switch devices for lowering. So ask what might happen if the Grigri fails to grab. On the other hand, if your looking for a nice device to top-rope solo, my Soloist's for sale. It will slide down the rope, pushing the shunt ahead of it. I use a Trango Vergo as a backup. Subjects include: general principles, devices-specific recommendations, suggested knots, belay anchors, self rescue and more! It includes the Vergo, NEOX, Pinch, Silent Partner, Soloist, El Mudo 2. I have soloed a bunch of walls with one but you have to religiously tie backup knots-which can be a part if your rope management. Aug 14, 2018 · Now you have set up your belay, attached appropriately via your solo device, stacked your rope and decided on a backup, you're ready to climb. I don't climb anything there is really any chance of falling off, at least suddenly. If you wanna solo lead shell out the $$$ for the Silent Partner. Compatible Devices: Petzl GriGri+; GriGri (2019 version) GriGri 2; NEOX; This accessory allows you to use your GriGri for Lead Rope Solo (LRS) climbing without altering the device permanently. Ensure your upper device will be held taut against your sternum while climbing using the “necklace” technique. I noticed that often when people do rope lead solo with a Grigri they have the device oriented backwards, with the lever pointing to their body instead of out, as you would normally have while belaying. Solo Belay Devices “It don’t gotta be fun to be fun. However, if it cannot tilt, it won’t clamp the rope. Originally I was looking for an USHBA basic ascender, which seems to be the best "non-teethed" device on the market for use as a top-rope solo device. I chose a dynamic rope because my biggest worries with this system are too much force on the progress capture devices. Goblin since it uses the same system as the USHBA and is being currently made. Solo Top Roping is a great way to get a lot of laps in and have a positive training day when you can’t find a partner, or are just looking for some solitude. Feb 10, 2011 · Bottom line: Don’t rope solo. In each case, the manufacturer says that proper climbing, protection, and anchor building experience and knowledge is absolutely vital before considering using their products. Ideally, use different devices: There is a risk of 2 identical devices having the same failure mode. The dynamic rope should absorb some of this force. Yes we can read an article over here or a few words there about rope soloing, but Yann has put it into the relaxed form of videos where you can sit back and let the infomation flow in! Easy days! I’ve also watched a bunch of his other youtube vids where he’s testing, comparing and analysing gear and devices. Jun 1, 2021 · Once you hook yourself to the rope, it pulls as you go up and also makes sure you land slowly when falling. Climb to the top of the route. If you are actually redpointing. TRS (Top Rope Solo) and EN 567 6 ≤ Ø ≤ 11 mm ≥ 12 kN – dynamic rope EN 892 – accessory cord EN 564 or semi-static rope EN 1891, with energy absorber EN 355 May 9, 2012 · Most of the rope soloing that I have done is with a mini-trax as the primary device, backed up with a Basic ascender below. I’m impressed by the safety features, both the 35-lb break limit and the rigid rubber covering on the pass through loop to prevent the cord from jamming the device. May 21, 2024 · This comprehensive review compares 13 of today's top options, offering you expert advice on which one is best for different situations. 3. performed alone without a climbing partner), but unlike with free solo climbing, which is also performed alone and with no climbing protection whatsoever, the rope-solo climber uses a mechanical self-belay device and rope system, which enables them to use the standard climbing protection to protect Sep 15, 2021 · Are there/have there been any purpose made top rope solo devices? If there was, would you buy it? I like the versatility of my two microtrax setup, but when I think about how much they get used for anything but TRS, it makes me think that I'd rather have a device built specifically for that. Now, fix your back-up rope to the anchor and drop it down. ( I've sent 200+ pitches with it). Russian Ushba (I believe not available anymore), Petzl shunt, and 2 different ascenders. The Petzl GriGri+, in top rope mode, is our preferred device. I've been using these techniques and I love the freedom it gives m Sep 17, 2012 · By far the best soloing device that I have come across. The myth: "teeth are bad and will damage your rope when top rope soloing"!!! People talk about teeth, smooth and ridges ONLY dynamic drop tests, static p Aug 16, 2007 · 2. This will make it easier to grab the cam and open it for moving the device up or down the rope manually without having to take it off the rope. Covered are some tips when looking at sending a new line when going on a. Goblin) The most popular device for top rope solo is probably the Micro Traxion. ” ~ Carl Tomblin. Die Sicherung basiert auf einem mechanischen Sicherungsgerät mit Rücklaufsperre und einem Kletterseil . But even the best free solo climber, pushing their limit, may find a section of the climb where success is uncertain - where a fall would mean death. (Rope Weight and Strand Separation) Double check your system! I know it sounds dumb and redundant; nerves are generally high before a rope solo and it's very easy to make mistakes, especially without a partner to double check your systems. They are also not as resistant to damage from the rope-gripping teeth on some devices, nor to abrasion over edges. 0, El Mudo 3. Apr 4, 2025 · Best Prices for Rope Solo Devices Across Canada Online Stores Scanned Every Day! Easy to Use | Free | Trustworthy Recommendations | Find your deal now! 1 main rope - something in the 10. 4. Rappel to the bottom of the route and set up my top rope solo with two progress capture devices on one line, and backing up with alpine butterflies in the second line. Feb 27, 2021 · I've tried a bunch of different things. The belay device is clipped into the rope and attached to the climber's harness. e. They are not designed for it. Progress capture devices that don't use teeth can still compress the core, causing damage that's much harder to notice than a damaged sheath. 11. But these reports basically never happen for people using 2 devices. g. It's basically a Grigri but the rope runs through it in a straight way when unlocked, so it feeds a bit better (didn't compare to a proper ascender). This dogleg in the rope path means that it needs to have a bit more weight on the bottom of the rope to start with. May 9, 2001 · I've got a Soloist - doesn't work badly for top-roping - but I wouldn't use it for leading. El Mudo is gaining international recognition, not only for being the only commercially available device/system but also for its design, which is fundamentally intended for Rope Solo Climbing—whether in Top Rope Solo (TRS) or Lead Rope Solo (LRS). Bomber multidirectional anchor at the bottom of a pitch, feed rope out and place gear as you climb, rappel down to clean and ascend the fixed rope. 9 ≤ Ø ≤ 10. Aug 20, 2020 · Because of the dog-leg/kink (see photo) in the “straight-through” rope path, there is more resistance when it is being pulled up the rope than devices that have a true straight through path such as the Lov2 or Goblin. I used my LOV3 again today for both Lead Rope Solo (LRS) and Top Rope Solo Climbing (TRS). Rope Soloing. fmck:. See full list on gearjunkie. Each device will provide a different balance between auto-feeding and grabbiness. Nick Strong · Jul 30, 2021 · Apr 26, 2016 · Thats why there are a number of reports like this: TR solo with one device, device doesn't catch, person decks. One or more cache loops are created before the belay device to help pull the rope through the device more efficiently. Is there another device that can be used in place of one or is there a source that someone knows of where I can find one. Information has been reported indicating that the Petzl SHUNT disconnected from the rope during a fall. You can use with any rope. The earliest type of self-belay device used was the ubiquitous prusik knotted sling used by climbers. Reduce the risk of stuck rope ends by covering the end knots (anchor side AND dead end side) by a kitchen funnel. Key word: "could". Feb 27, 2023 · Use a locking draw to extend the upper or lower device if you want, the options are limitless, but an extremely simple two device setup that only adds maybe 30 seconds of faff per lap is extremely simple to implement and ought to be considered the standard of top rope soloing. And if the instructions are elsewhere on the site, they undoubtedly include using a backup, which implies that the device is fallible. Jan 14, 2023 · It is a single rope device, unlike the shunt. However afaik it's made for lead rope solo, so a different use case from yours. The lead solo devices: The devices mentioned in the lead section can serve top roping purposes. Petzl Micro Traxion) Ascenders (e. It feeds super smooth. Not so the other way around. It is easy to use after the initial learning phase. If you fall hard on them, you run the risk of shearing the sheath of your rope. Clip the self-belay I think it was important to get the information out there about the Trango Vergo, Trango Cinch and the Kong Back-Up. granted there is a locking carabiner holding the 2 halves of the unit together and Nov 19, 2024 · This reduces the risk of the rope pulling out as Midgen has alluded to. In unserem Beitrag zeigen wir dir vorerst nur die Technik, wie ihr euch beim Toprope-Klettern selbst sichern könnt. The micro traxion is also a perfectly fine device for rope solo. C. Next, rappel your main line to the ground. Also the creator has a facebook page with videos of the device in use. Oct 15, 2021 · While the second device is technically a backup device, the redundancy is important for safety. Apr 23, 2023 · In reply to. Our work schedules keep us from climbing with a partner. When you reach the top and pull on the rope sharply several times, the weight detaches from the ROLLNLOCK is an ultra-light multi-function device for mountaineering, rope access work, rescue and self-rescue. I also don't waste time teaching people to belay on an ATC. Used, not heavily, usual dings from being trucked around. What remains to be seen (at least for my uses): 1) How smoothly will it feed? Avant founder Brent Barghahn created these innovations to reach parity with his live belay ascents, sending 5. Any form of solo climbing is quite advanced a Oct 30, 2024 · The rope is attached to an anchor point or belay stance. Page 1 of 1 Original Post. Sep 2, 2021 · Petzl has learned of a fall in which a solo climber was using a Petzl SHUNT, specifically using it as a self-belay device. Dec 5, 2017 · when the rope gets cross loaded in the device (so rope not going tuber to tuber) which can be pretty common when catching a fall/ even the weight of taking a climber, the clasp that initially closes the device comes undone and the device swivels open a bit. In this video I do a first ascent of an undeveloped crag with a top rope solo setup. However, since it is not being made anymore I am looking at the C. If you want to use the rope for rappelling or pulling it up later, you can hang the bag or backpack with the weight using a Fifi hook on the rope. Some people (usually those who have used a Mini Traxion as their primary rope solo device) worry about the small possibility that the lock-out lever will be actuated by brushing against the rock, thus rendering the cam ineffective. Sep 19, 2022 · That’s perfect for conventional belay devices; not so great for top rope solo device. But rope soloing is certainly not for beginners. Dropping a device when changing the system from ascent to descent. Some climbers hang a second rope alongside the first and clip into bights pre-tied in the backup rope in case the primary rope or belay device fails. There are a couple of ways to rope solo, but first lets begin with the basics. Backup can be a second rope, knots, a second device, etc. I have done a lot of rope soloing and would never consider these devices for soloing. Twice, I decided to downclimb to a rest just below the bulge. Bliss Climbing and TAZ are teaming up to celebrate the 20,000 members of the Top Rope Solo Facebook group in a big giveaway to win a LOV2 or LOV3 and a Top rope solo online course. While climbing connect the rope that goes from the "To climber" side of device to your protection, if you misclip, your device can't catch your fall. We prefer to use the grabbiest possible device that we can still coax into auto-feeding because they will engage most reliably in a fall while allowing us to climb relatively unencumbered. In this video, I discuss the basics of top rope solo, one of the safest and easiest forms of rope solo climbing. This means that unless specified if using a rocker device on a sub-optimal rope can produce sub-optimal results. The Rescucender is a perfectly fine device for rope solo. The shunt and ascender were never designed for top rope solo or lead rope solo, one of the best bit of kit I've seen on the market so far that works really well for top rope solo is the Taz Love 2 and 3 as they are rated for progress capture Each device will provide a different balance between auto-feeding and grabbiness. May 14, 2022 · Most so-called “top rope self-belay devices” are actually designed as one of the following: Rope grabs and rope clamps (e. If you load the body of the device, it can/will just slide down the rope. Now, they are available for purchase! Now, they are available for purchase! Sep 30, 2022 · See the lead rope solo facebook group for discussions. For example, the Soloist will not catch a head-first fall. These two devices should be attached to your rope, per the device instructions. The one that I had was for top rope but it isn't made anymore and I don't see them make ones like that style anymore (dropping lock bar), and it seems many are being discontinued such as the Silent Partner so most people use microtraxion which is technically May 26, 2024 · Middle will be more expensive, slower changeover: Camp Roller chest ascender TR Solo setup or some other TR solo setup, then switch to GriGri to descend. Enhance your top rope solo climbing safety and efficiency with our Universal Top Rope Solo Neck Lanyard—professionally designed for seamless compatibility with all devices and tailored for comfort, it eliminates the DIY hassle, ensuring a perfect fit for every climber on fixed line top roping or fix-and-follow multipit Nov 24, 2024 · The Revo is a relatively well known self-belay device in rope solo circles that is used as a poor man’s Silent Partner - that is, a bi-directional feed device that operates on the basis of centrifugal force/speed lock to stop rope feed. It is a great pleasure to share our knowledge on Lead Rope Solo with all of you. Some have even gone so far as to cut the lever off altogether. If you are falling backwards on a lower-angle slab, or catch the rope with your leg, the rope will be exiting the device at an angle that will not trigger the cam. Don't have slack in your system, that can damage the rope with either device. Compatible Devices: Petzl GriGri+ GriGri (2019 version) GriGri 2 NEOX This accessory allows you to use your GriGri for Lead Rope Solo (LRS) climbing without altering the device permanently. Embrace the purity of top rope climbing. Then I bought the Revo. 0, which seems like it is hard to get ahold of currently. And you must be backed up—never depend on a single device. Jan 12, 2022 · ALWAYS use a static rope when solo-toproping: Dynamic ropes introduce stretch and hence longer fall potential, introducing greater forces and greater opportunity for device failure. Jun 17, 2023 · (Solo Belay Devices) Rig your rope weight and strand separation system if you're choosing to use one. These holes allow the hand ascender to function in a few different ways as a rope grab in a hauling setup, which can be particularly helpful for rescue situations or when someone or something needs to be attached to a fixed line temporarily, such as when No its not an ascender, its a rope solo device, that's literally what they are called. Dual rope strands: Many gear manufacturers, including Petzl, reccomend 2 strands of rope. The ultimate in self arrest / rope solo devices and still works as a belay device too. If not, and you’re just starting lead rope solo, a lot of the Rock Exotica/Wren stuff is the most widely used- Silent Partner is a popular favorite, but also expensive as shit if you can find one anywhere. You don’t need to pull in slack while climbing. Alex Huber has put up 14- multipitch routes rope solo, ground up. I mainly use it for leading and multipitch climbs. RollnLock) Progress-capture pulleys (e. In my opinion, there are better devices Jun 18, 2020 · Gstring Climbing Grips Grigri lead rope solo Grigri hack Gstring Classics Gstring PROs RipCord RollBar adjusting difficulty hangboard lead rope-solo strength training 3D-Sling Chalkbag Chris Webb Parsons Gallows Gstring PRO Hanchor Lead Rope Solo Mt. Dec 16, 2016 · I do really think this is a better solo TR than 2 traxions, I never tested the minimum rope weight required to let it run, I just had gym sandbags, but assuming it works with a realistic weight it would be the best solo TR device out there for me if it didn’t fucking break in some way. Jul 30, 2021 · Rope solo devices. Device failure: improper attachment, disabling of the cam, or a side plate opening during use (rubbing, interference from foreign objects). Reporting back on my own thread: By adding a secondary attachment point with a breaking strength of 40-60 kg, this modification offers an ideal angle for solo climbing with a GriGri. As stated in the Technical Notice, the Petzl SHUNT is not to be used as a self-belay device in any capacity. Attach the self-belay devices. The climber can bust some series moves without touching the device or rope until the current cache loop is running out, and then one hand can be used to dump the next clove hitch allowing more free rope of a correct weight to feed through the device. Jul 14, 2022 · The following is part one of another chunk on my On the Line book, covering the tricky topic of top rope soloing (TRS). Some people recommend having each device on a seperate strand of rope in case of a rope failure. Enhance your top rope solo climbing safety and efficiency with Avant's Universal Top Rope Solo Neck Lanyard. Single rope with both devices one single rope - one on belay loop the other on a sling around both shoulders, double rope with a device on each. This is a tutorial on how to Rope Solo Lead Climb using the Rock Exotica Soloist device. My body weight wasn’t supported because the sling around my neck [part of the top-rope solo setup] got sucked into the device and caught in the teeth of the Traxion. Connect directly to the bolt rings 1 foot below the top of the face, using slings and lockers. The Fundamental Principles of rope soloing. 14 rope solo style. The Soloist was and is still the best device solo free climbing. Jan 13, 2011 · I use this as a device to help capture progress while top rope solo climbing outside. ---- Rope removal ---- 10. Oct 10, 2020 · Also I presume if a primary device fails to grip and the climber falls back to a blocking knot on a low stretch rope then there will be a greater impact on the gear and climber (I think I've read the shunt is at higher risk of breaking than other devices, perhaps a reason to use a free running maillon as a backup). Trango Passport) Fall arrest devices (e. There are a few really good purpose built devices on the market that don't have the flaws and failure modes the old petzl kit has. It is a shame the Soloist and the Silent Partner are no longer in production. But the El Mudo is there for some climbe Gerke Hoekstra is very experienced in lead rope solo climbing and tope rope solo climbing. On the third attempt, I popped off my holds and heard the rope whip through the device without any resistance. 9. Aug 25, 2022 · For hauling, I like to use a 6mm static tag line to keep weight low, and foot-haul the pack with this simple system (fig. However, there are some that still will work well for soloing. The main advantages are the ease of feed and the ability to catch head first falls. Please be careful, and realize that my tutorial is only for experie For soloing, I use a Kong Duck mini-ascender with a paracord sling around my neck to keep the device high on the fixed rope, prevent it from weighting the rope dynamically, and to keep it separate from my Petzl Microtraxion, which I use below the Duck as a backup. Some people find neck loops annoying to use, so this device provides an alternative. Jan 5, 2022 · There are also one or more holes at the bottom which allow the attachment to the climber or other devices like aid ladders or pulleys. For top rope solo a trax primary is fine. This essential add-on is designed to significantly increase the safety of your primary lead rope solo device carabiner, or to stabilize your top rope solo devices. Grigri with microtrax, grigri alone, grigri with jumar, jumar with microtrax etc etc. I have not used silent partner, but top rope often solo and have used different devices, e. Als Rope Solo (englisch für Solo mit Seil) wird beim Klettern die Begehung einer Kletterroute im Alleingang mit Selbstsicherung bezeichnet. The common rope soloing activities are called top roping and lead belaying. Auto-belay devices became a necessity during COVID because they eliminated the need for a partner. Its specialized engineering and full stainless-steel construction make it May 27, 2019 · And hey, you need to do something with your good old dynamic ropes after retiring them for leading =) As for the one vs two strands, as discussed above in point 1, if you do go through the hassle of installing a double strand at the anchors, do use them both for your safety while climbing, ie, main device in one rope and backup device in Petzl does not reccomend using their devices for top rope solo but still recognizes people do it anyway and has good information on the safest methods. sh/wideboyz08211All your questions you asked me about rope s Sep 20, 2018 · As a self-belay device—a device purpose-designed for rope-solo climbing on lead—the Silent Partner uses a centrifugal clutch to stop a fall. Orders before 1PM PST (Mon-Sat) ship the same day or you get it free!* Sign-up for newsletter and get 15% off your first order Increase Carabiner Peace-of-Mind with AVANT's Unique Flex-Link Device Side Crossload Protector. By adding a secondary attachment point with a breaking strength of 40-60 kg, this modification offers an ideal angle for solo climbing with a GriGri. Apr 1, 2023 · It is important to realize that solo belay devices have their limitations. The rope was sliding against the sling. After a discussion of the difference between lead rope soloing and top rope soloing Glen discusses the Both are really good for toproping, because they require little weight on the rope to work. In the event of a fall, the device tilts and clamps the rope. Both have been on the market for a while and have similar applications in crevasse rescue, hauling, TR ascent, and as part of a system for self-rescue. The most commonly asked question about the NEOX is Prusik is an absolute disaster for rope soloing. Rope-solo climbing or rope-soloing (or self-belaying) is a form of solo climbing (i. The drum spins freely in either direction, feeding rope as the knot slips, until a certain speed is reached, which locks the device. I am also looking for a device for top rope solo and of the many methods what device is seen as the most effective and versatile. Key words; "can be". 5 mm or larger. Jun 15, 2012 · Leave it slack, so it won’t dislodge rocks as you climb. But that’s kind of a weird context, most hardcore alpinists just free solo and carry a rope with them for retreating and rappelling when going solo. If a short/sharp tug on the device does not lock them, something is awry. Follow topic: Email Notify on site Post Reply. Friends and I noticed this right away with the prototypes, and I’ve confirmed this by using the Grigri and the Neox in the same day. EN 15151-1 type 6 8. Nov 26, 2022 · The device is pretty much an alternative to using a neck loop to keep the devices separated. I’d hang a light weight on the rope to feed it through. yljq adx xnas ektyb dfy xqcbsom umhrdr enxjhteev ygzahrz nyxihx uxmbzng tkkb ekjijd ghgcq utle