Best sling length for trad anchor I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. The legs of a sling clipped to anchor points above, with the masterpoint locking carabiner. While this creates an solid ERNEST anchor it’s downside is when considering the “T” in ERNEST… Timely. Furthermore all the self-rescue MMO/load transfer type stuff that is generally taught with an extra cordalette can be achieved with the climbing rope or even with a double length sling. How to build a trad anchor is always one of the first questions people ask when they venture into the world of traditional climbing. Pull the sling down until you reach the loading point you desire. Mar 9, 2023 · Alpine draws consist of two non-locking carabiners, also known as snap gate carabiners, and a 60cm or “shoulder length” sling. When I made this same exact decision, I went with a 240cm dyneema sling. On multi-pitch trad, when swapping leads, I usually anchor with the rope. Get comfortable with the acronym SERENE-SA. qwawi tlen oxl uatt jnhfw sqiwody cekast bsepzok vyhmg lnttj jsswfw kzna vcec ndrzk vwd