Best ice axe for mountaineering reddit If you plan on climbing really steep stuff a curve can help stop the pick coming out. I think it's a combination of a few things. I really stay away from ice for the most part, but may use it to get up a 5ft section of an ice slab/bulge, but generally not purely vertical. A. You need to stick the ice axe into the snow to do that while hiking, and you shouldn't be doing that with an ice climbing axe's handle. The snow is too deep in the alpine for an ice axe to be useful in winter. I’m from the Midwest so I dont get many hiking opportunities. Hoping to do mt. 85 votes, 20 comments. ) My candidates: Petzl Gully Either way here's what one of the world's best ice climbers had to say on falling while ice climbing. Grivel tools, Petzl crampons (superb modularity,) Blue Ice classic piolets. However, I would look at the 50cm options first. You can jamb these upside down into the tiniest cracks and crank your full weight on them all day long. First day to the Lunch Counter at 9,300', 5 hours. Also much more comfortable to hold an ice axe with gloves. ), while other climbers I've met swear by them. Related Mountaineer Mountaineering Mountaineering Climbing Outdoors Sports Outdoors and Nature forward back r/skiing The sport where you strap two boards to your feet and point them down the mountain. 22 votes, 10 comments. Great all around ice axe, handles steeper terrain, and is quite comfortable paired with an ice tool when it gets too steep for an axe alone. Neither shovel nor axe tore the shove-it panel. It’s great for cutting steps. But it’s not for climbing. There's not much to it. The screw anchor, in a nutshell, is basically a prussik attached to the side of the rope you pull down, and wrapped around the screw enough times to unscrew it as you pull. Climbing has been testing a pre-production model since last December, where we swung them on long multi-pitch flows around Cody I’m planning my first mountaineering trip for this summer and just beginning research, but I have many questions. I'll also second the OR Bitterblaze gloves, they rock. P. I'm about 180cm and I prefer ~ 53 cm semi-curved axes with sharp picks. I still need to squeeze food and some hygiene products. They walk up bigger and steeper things that start needing more equipment and skills, eg ice axe, crampons and knowing how to use them. Second wack gave everything I had and pulled my whole body ontop of the axe, started to slowdown after a long time. Or just ask the guide you pay to drag you up all these peaks, I guess. Jan 28, 2025 · Corey is a freelance writer and editor based in Boulder, CO. My first snow climb was cristo couloir on Quandary. I used the sharp point of the ice axe more than either other edge. When climbing or traversing steeper slopes, a shorter ice axe is easier to handle since you don't have to plunge the axe as deep and pull out 65cm of shaft then rinse and repeat. She is a volunteer climbing instructor at The Ice Coop, Colorado’s only dedicated ice-climbing gym, where she does much of her training. I feel more comfortable descending with the long axe handy. Going guided on Rainier next month via the Fuhrer (which is similar to the Kautz on grade & technicality from what I've gathered). I have not done any trips into extreme cold conditions though, so no 4 season tent or heavy insulating layers. Ice axes are crude instruments. The picks are perfectly angled and finished straight out the box, and I have never broken one, yet ;-) When Klem and I climbed Spray On Top they were the only axes we could rely on through a diverse range ice and mixed climbing. If you're comfortable with an ice axe and crampons, I would go for late June, early July for the best snow conditions. BD has a great reputation for making good sturdy shovels and if you’re a weight conscious ski mountaineer I’m sure this will turn out to be a great option. That's genuinely the full spectrum. The Petzl Lightride is a slightly heavier alternative that is a better performing axe due to its steel head and spike. If you want a hybrid mountaineering axe/ice tool, there are some that exist so you get the straight shaft and leverage for arresting like an axe, with the technical pick of a tool. By contrast, I'm aware of multiple injuries caused by failures of aluminum ice axes. It’s not rated for falls because it wouldn’t pass. I've searched extensively on Reddit and the internet about ice axes and found a variety of opinions. It is often used as a snow picket, an anchor, and also for self arrest. e. But if you go for a long Venom it would no long be any better than the conventional ice axes on e. Doing this sport, i have ice tools instead of ice axes. com Mar 25, 2015 · Also, leaning on your axe on gentle slopes is played out. Self arresting is much easier with a standard piolet than any tools with a reverse curved pick (or even a whippet). M. But for a walk up, I'd stick with a straight axe with no grip. My crampons (strap-on) work with snowboarding boots as well as my regular winter hiking boots. The winter rated carbon poles might be the move, like I said I’m using poles made for running ultra Marathons so the durability is probably greatly sacrificed from strength. But don’t plan on buying a second one in an effort to use it for climbing that would require two tools. You can still use it on low angle gentle slope. First wack with the ice axe did nothing, still flying. I have crampons and an ice axe but little mountaineering experience/training. I know there isn't the perfect allround model but i still have to start somewhere. Dec 5, 2023 · The Best Mountaineering Backpacks. Just been monitoring conditions but am expecting to get to KMS around mid Keep a climbing journal, and your climbing enters into the rock/mixed/ice era and not just walking uphill, then be careful and listen to your body. Outside will go: Black diamond helmet 12. Before you go for hood, you need to know how to self arrest, how to move properly with crampons (real ones, with real mountaineering boots), how to climb with your ice axe, how to frontpoint and how to plunge step. 372 votes, 98 comments. More important than the brand name of the axe is buy Yvonn Chouinard's excellent book Climbing Ice. Seriously, nothing else even comes close. Nearly every simple ice-axe on the market today climbs as well as the old classic Chouinard piolet, with which masters were climbing WI6 back in the 1970s. The second day is to the summit (4 hours) and all the way back to the car (4 more hours). Mine is packed for Ice Climbing today. this is because there is massive rockfall hazard in the summer that is protected by rime ice during winter conditions. A walking axe and a climbing axe/tool are two very different beasts with different use cases. Learning that summiting isn’t the objective, getting back down is. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla As a beginner, without any friends practicing this sport to give me advice, the first ice axe I bought was a Petzl Summit Evo of 59cm. A few guides I've met have said leashes can do more harm than good (discouraging you from moving the axe from one hand to the other, etc. Venom is a good compromise Knowledge of how to use crampons and ice axe are of course still mandatory, but you won't need any ropes. 213K subscribers in the Mountaineering community. I'm 173 cm height (5'8 ) I soon realised this ice axe was too long for the routes I'm taking, and now I'm selling it and looking for an alternative (or I might keep it for glaciers. Get a bent shaft, t-rated ax. Its design is stylish and efficient, demonstrating a perfect blend of functionality and aesthetics in the harsh mountain climbing environment. If you really need to lean on something, many mountaineers will use one lightweight trekking pole, axe in other hand, when it's not steep. Get an ice axe that goes to around the bottom of your Blue Ice Hummingbird Ice Axe: Tried it before, liked it besides the price CAMP Corsa Ice Axe: seems like the light weight axe most people have CAMP Corsa Nanotech: Seems like it's slightly more aggresive and a bit heavier. I am currently in the process of buying winter mountaineering boots, crampons and ice axe. I was also up on Mount Hood today climbing, we did the pearly gates on the left side and I really wish I had a second axe for how icy it was! These are generally best as a second tool for intermediate mountaineering or easy alpine ice/snow climbs where you want security of a second tool or self arrest ability Paired with an even more technical tool. 3 oz. It thus requires greater skill of its user to give the similar results. I currently have a Petzl Glacier for a general mountaineering axe. TLDR: It sucks, if you have a long way to go, bring full on ice climbing gear no matter what, if it's 1-2 pitches, the weight saving of only having one ice axe might be worth it I want to use them both on ice and mixed climbing in lower grades and also as single ice axe for skitouring, i prefer something lighter even at the cost of durability, since i wont be using them that many times in a sesons, alason something less curved and technical than nomics. Michael Covington is on the cover climbing Mt Kilimanjaro I believe. Of course, there are harder routes. But that shouldn't be you first ice axe you buy then. For wet ice climbing I'm a big fan of Showa Temres 282 gloves. I had them maxed out at 50lbs and 35lbs, since they didn't allow a second checked bag over 35lbs on my flight. We thought it would be fun to see what you all think is "essential" and made your crevasse rescue gear list. Fusions are the best mixed climbing axe I have ever used. Take your raven, you'll be fine. Most people aren’t doing sustained ice climbing on lines that they want to ski down. Fully curved climbing axe pair with an adze and hammer, a very robust hybrid with a slightly taller and less piercing point than the sum'tec for hard ice and glaciers, and the camp microtech corsa for those lighter trips. For scrambling, they often come loose when the axe bangs into something like a tree branch. I have some rather old mountaineering skills books that detail how to set up both a retrievable ice screw anchor and a retrievable axe anchor. 192K subscribers in the Mountaineering community. ($300+) These are ultramodern ice tools designed to be super aggressive, strong and expensive for the ultimate in ice climbing badassery and handling vertical mixed ice and rock. At the end of the day your placements and footwork have much more of an impact then your equipment. I own one. So I brought a 70 cm Raven which i love. All comes down to what you are climbing. Maybe there's glaciers to cross, in which case ropes and crevasse rescue kit and training becomes necessary. I'd like some partitioning but not too much (maybe a mesh pocket or two or a second compartment. Makes plunging the axe easier as well. Ice axe in one of the ice axe loops. Probably because a long summit day above 23,000ft, some combination of altitude, exhaustion, whatever, I slipped on hidden band of ice and started sliding down the I would also do lot's of crag ice climbing before doing glacial ice climbing. The hammer is designed to smash in pitons, pickets and snow anchors. Would be cumbersome. Disassembled shovel and probe go in the stretch mesh front shove-it pocket. , Petzl Ride) are designed to be carried inside most packs. Posted by u/16Off - 1 vote and no comments The John Muir Trail passes through what many backpackers say is the finest mountain scenery in the United States. To find the right length ice axe based on your size, hold it while standing upright and relaxed with your arms by your sides. I have a black diamond ice axe that works great for me. My only regret was I threw one into the hole! Carbon Fiber ice tools have been regularly on the market for over 20 years. Don't overthink tools. There are lighter options out there but if you’re already carrying an axe this means one less tube to carry. • Self-arrest with an ice axe • Crampon travel and for that, you'll need: • Climbing helmet (No substitutes--must be certified for vertical climbing) • Ice axe (NOT ice tools) • 10- or 12-point Crampons (NOT microspikes, instep crampons, etc) • Boots that will work with your crampons. Way too many. I typically don’t use super thick gloves unless it’s extremely cold (Denali, Aconcagua, 7000+m peaks). Now I want my own. Sleeping bag in sleeping bag compartment. Hey folks! I'm in the PDX area this weekend and next and would love to go up Hood. I like the idea of a shorter ice axe but am wondering if 45cm is just a bit too short. . • Heavy thick mountaineering gaiters (to I think the long axe is an antiquated thing. Just use your imagination and move your body around the axe manually. You are going to buy new axes down the road anyway, because who doesn’t have multiple ice axes, locker full of boots, etc. If im doing class 4 bouldering with an ice axe hanging on the back I’ve already accepted that I’m gonna have to live life taking some risks, might as well save the lbs If you’re set on a “walking” ice axe, 60cm is the absolute limit for vertical progression— any longer is just too cumbersome. Sorry if this post isn't strictly about back-country skiing! I'm looking for advice/recos on what you guys use as a strap/loop for a mountaineering axe (as opposed to ice-climing axe). Doing a NOBO attempt starting May 10 and have been curious if Whitney would be possible this year (and ofc the Sierra itself). For almost all use cases, e. Eventually your gear is going to wet out. The Suluk isn’t an ice axe. It's inspirational as well as instructive. They're all pretty light. Gloves are recommended by guide companies so that you have enough dexterity to manipulate carabiners and zippers. If you have mountaineering boots, you can get step-in crampons. ) I didn’t think the altitude was that intense but I live in SLC and frequently hike 10-12k ft peaks and 14ers in Colorado, so I probably had a decent level of acclimatization. I like easy mixed and upto AI4 ish with a bent shaft "mountaineering" ax. It gives you an opportunity to learn some basic mountaineering travel skills, such as rope team, ice axe use, and maybe crevasse rescue, depending on the course. Semi auto crampons are nice if you anticipate using them with a 3/4 shank boot (now or in the future) that's more suited for snow travel and rock scrambles than for ice climbing. makes the best (lightest) carabiners for alpine use, both locking and non-locking. The only downside is the lack of proper ice tool attachments, which gets annoying, but they're fine for axes. We scrambled up remote alpine peaks, swung ice tools on steep waterfall ice, and set out for multi-week expeditions. It's cheaper, lighter, and literally the same shaft and pick as the Evo. Our mountaineering experts have tested 30 of the best mountaineering backpacks over the last decade. Is this possible? I called and asked one of the guides and he said clear creek route through june is doable that way. I think that C. Petzl Ride: Weird hybrid where I think most people just get the Gully so they can ice climb. Used for attaching your ice axe to your wrist and preventing the ice axe from disappearing down a long slop if you drop it. Some folks prefer shorter axes -- depends on your mechanics and the terrain you'll I saw a video of a guy climbing unroped but tethered to his axe with a sling and biner. A lot of people had a ice tool used for ice climbing as their second ice Axe. AAI requires a hammered ice tool such as the Quark, but also a hybrid axe measuring between 50-59cm such as a Petzl Sum'Tec, Petzl Summit Evo (a bit less of a hybrid I guess), or the BD Venom. “Mixed climbing” uses ice tools on rock and ice. For the “ice tool”, without getting too technical would the Sum’tec with the hammer back be good enough to climb with? Unless you start late and hike fast, you should not plan to hike the CDT without an ice axe and the practice using it. Ideally, you never have to arrest, but you likely will want protection on the steeper slopes. Alpine (ice, allround): Get a Sumtec and a Quark hammer, maybe another quark later. The route requires both a general mountaineering ice axe and an ice tool, but having trouble thinking through which tool to grab. I haven't been impressed with the various attachments that hold the ice axe shaft to the pack; it looks like your pack doesn't even have them. Longer axes will facilitate descending and downclimbing. Petzl glacier ice axe 13 oz. I love the external crampon pouch, and use it for big water bottles in the summer climbing season. There are several different styles of ice axes -- a "walking axe" is a good place to start, for general mountaineering. I had experience with mountaineering before (super basic stuff on Breithorn and more legit experience on Middle Sister). I had a double trad rack in my carryon bag, which was also my climbing pack(MH Scrambler 35). Ice axes have gotten a lot better, but technique is still far more important than tech. I'm climbing Kautz with Alpine Ascents in June and wanted some advice on ice tools. the conditions on mount hood Leave it as it is. ). Business, Economics, and Finance. If you want an ice tool for ice climbing it will naturally be sharper and will require frequent resharpening depending on the terrain you climb in. Buachaille Etive Beag and Mor are for example great and straightforward winter hikes without technical difficulties, as long as you stick to the main path. You might also discover I’m 5’9” and bought a petzl ride (45cm) in anticipation of climbing some of the PNW volcanoes (Hood, Adams, St Helens). It recommends I bring one mountaineering axe and one ice tool (without an adze). I have crampons, mountaineering boots, and an ice axe but I did rent a helmet. Non sketchy but would like a bit of a nicer hold while climbing - whippet Sketchy to point of needing one tool - ice axe Pretty sketchy with one tool - ice axe and whippet Two tools required - steep to near vertical ice Remember ice axe = boot crampons and a helmet. Good mountaineering gloves include Black Diamond Guide gloves. We Based on my limited findings, I have made assumptions about the steel company previously making ice axe heads or thinking that a North Korean dictator forged this axe on a trip to the mountains but I don't think either is correct (especially the second thought). Way too many benefits to the shorter, lighter, easier to wield ice axe. It is measured from the tip of the axe to the top of the head. I'm from Switzerland and I want to start with easy high mountain tours, such as the Breitenhorn or Sustenhorn via the normal routes. If you go crazy and wanna climb 50 degree walls I would prefer two ice axes with a bended shaft. I took a climbing course, and Mt Baker was my first glaciated peak. Something challenging but not super technical or risky. May 13, 2013 · Not good. I have heard mixed opinions about having a leash on your ice axe (we're talking general mountaineering ice axes, not ice tools for ice climbing). Now, I want to start mountaineering, and for my beginner tours, I believe I need an ice axe. You should prepare by learning basic mountaineering techniques on mountains that are less technical and consequential than Hood. You won't need auto crampons unless you anticipate climbing ice. I find ice axes shorter than 50 cm more difficult to self arrest with, so I wouldn’t recommend going shorter than 50 cm for most people. Petzl's Sum'tec description: "A compromise between a classic mountaineering ice axe and an ice climbing axe, the SUM’TEC is a versatile, lightweight, technical ice axe. The screws I bought from a trusted friend. You just need something sized for comfort. Honestly, 50L is really big for most ice climbing adventures. It's a 60cm Black Diamond, and I'll be using for a bit of glacier travel this weekend (possibly for getting up some steeper sections and in case of self-arrest). I was given a rope from a friend one time that was barely used and I triple checked it. I mostly use it to lead in the gym. Keep these ice tools for pure ice climbing and get an ice axe for alpine climbing. These are both certified ice axes. If you don't plan technical ice climbing, get the regular Summit. We bounced every possible selection off OutdoorGearLab staff, our friends, and over a dozen guides who specialize in alpine guiding and mountaineering. Ice axes and crampons in the checked bag along with the ropes. We did 3 persons on a rope, with a minimum of two Hi mountaineers In 2020 I started doing real alpine mountaineering, went on a course in Switzerland for a week and climbed Pigne d'Arolla, then with my brother I climbed Strahlhorn and Ulrichshorn. The major drawback from using a leash is that you need to change your leash hand every time your ice axe changes hands. Beginner-to-moderate difficulty (I've completed 3x mountaineering courses and 4x objectives but my wife has only completed 1x course) Get it for mountaineering, knowing that it’s more capable than a traditional axe and can also climb gullies, couloirs, and mixed ice and snow better than a basic axe. First advice I’d give is to ensure your kit is sufficient, the top third of the tourist trail was non-climbable last year without winter gear, crampons and ice axes, so if you do ensure you’re prepared for winter mountaineering rather than hiking. These tools are not made to be plunged into deep snow, therefore they are not appropriate for alpine climbing, especially for a beginner. Concurred, dont fall. An ice climbing tool won’t be the best for mountaineering. If you've never owned an ice axe before maybe you should look into more conservative climbing goals first. Climbing on a glacier while carrying an ice axe, crampons, wearing heavy mountaineering boots, and being roped in and forced to maintain a pace that is not your own is much more Ice axe runs you 80 dollars, and crampons maybe 160. There's no technical difficulties on the south side, but it's gonna be melted out pretty bad by that time. I've known some people who got into ice climbing pretty fast after being introduced to this, and regretted buying regular crampons and ice axe. Terrain constantly changes. I typically use it as a more secure way to climb up steep snow/ski routes, along with crampons, and have as a self arrest tool. steep ice or other more technical terrain. Not trying to minimize the importance of self-arresting though. My wife and I are traveling to New Zealand this coming December 2024 and are looking for a mountaineering objective that meets the following requirements. If you can't climb ice with a mountaineering axe comfortably then the tools aren't going to make that much of a difference. I learned the Self Arrest method with an ice axe. Everything they list should be UIAA certified. If you start climbing steep stuff, then look at the venom. I am much faster with resetting my self-belay when using a shorter ice axe thus my preference for my 50cm shorter ice axe when doing scrambles but no roped glacier travel. It's a great pack! For many people, mountaineering is an extension of hiking. I'd also bring multiple pairs of gloves, regardless of what you get. If I am doing an alpine route (steep snow requiring two tools, ice and mixed climbing) I use Petzl The ice axe stay on the ice axe loops and clips under the side compression straps of the pack. I currently use a 50cm ice axe for ski mountaineering. Regarding ice axes don't get hung up on the old "it needs to reach your ankles" too much - I personally rather take a slightly more technical (bent & shorter) ice axe, because it will be more versatile in the long run. If there is anything related to safety, be extra careful. Whatever long axe you can afford will serve you well. If you do things right, you would have plenty of other experiences and probably buy a second or even third ice axe by the time you're considering something like Denali. You see that all the time. There are different tools for different jobs. S. Reply reply 100% agree with this. The patina built up over the years is the physical manifestation of the time an item has sat somewhere. As such, don’t fall into the trap of getting a “cane”. But all that is needed to spring climb co 14ers couloirs is a whippet. Reverse curve picks are designed for sustained climbing on steep ice. I've spent a fair bit of time teaching self arrest techniques to university students and I have them practice with a big range; from the standard straight shaft ice axe all the way to ridiculously curved tools like Nomics. Be up to the challenge - get an ice axe, and From more technical models that blur the lines of what could be used for even water ice climbing to Ultralite models for alpine rock, ski-mountaineering, or spring backpacking trips on the PCT. Hello. I flew Latam into Chile with all my gear in two checked bags. If Shasta is gonna be your first peak, I’d camp it unless you are really fit. This is a land of 13,000-foot and 14,000-foot peaks, of lakes in the thousands, and of canyons and granite cliffs. People absolutely get away with it - but it doesn't mean that those choices are smart or responsible. May 15, 2024 · On the outset, the Black Diamond Swift clearly stands out as a premium ice axe choice. I'm looking at really getting into the sport and purchasing all of the necessary gear (crampons, ice axe, ice tool, mountaineering boots, crampons, helmet, etc). I climb in the Cascades with a mountaineering organization, and they usually lend me gear, but now I think I'm ready to purchase my own ice axe. Specifically this line always comes to mind frequently when thinking about ice climbing. I’d recommend looking at used, since many people buy long, straight axes and then realize they want something more aggressive. The CAMP Corsa is the lightest axe for hiking. The primary use of an ice axe is protection against a fall, secondary is self arresting. I never really bought into this classic measurement of ice axe length. Any tips or tricks on renewing this broom handle axe? How to protect the logo from chipping off? I don't like bd tools. The climb itself is relatively straight forward with a mix of snow couloirs, scrambling, and traversing. Or that they do neither "mountaineering" or "ice climbing" well. As I have never been in the higher mountains in the winter before, this will be my first experience with snow and more technical routes. In addition to the locations already answered, you can practice the motions of self arrest on any floor with the plastic guards on your ice axe. It is easy to use in piolet canne mode with its stainless steel spike and its slightly curved shaft. Not sure what else. Smth like Petzl Quark o Petzl Gully. Keep it, and get a second more technical tool if you know you need it. Related Mountaineer Mountaineering Mountaineering Climbing Outdoors Sports Outdoors and Nature forward back r/WestCoastTrail A subreddit specifically about the West Coast Trail on Vancouver Island in Britsh Columbia. But if you can do that it becomes a do-everything axe, (except roped climbing where you'll need a reverse a pick). I just used an Osprey Aether Plus 70 this weekend on a 3 day, 2 night trip. It’s a combo ice axe and shovel at 2lbs. Hi! Experienced mountain hiker with no experience with anything technical, crampons ice axe etc but in elite physical and mental conditioning shape. You can’t use it as an anchor for climbing. You could self arrest in most conditions with it if it’s not extremely steep or use it as a grippy pole with an axe head. A hybrid axe like the sum’tec doesn’t climb ice as well as dedicated tools and doesn’t arrest as well as a general axe. For example, 0 degree sleeping bag (600), suitable 4 season mountaineering tent (750), do you have hard shells? What do you think is wrong with your Talon 36? I have the 44 and have taken it mountaineering (Scotland), alpine climbing, and ice climbing. For less steep terrain I like a shorter ice axe with a curved handle. BD rock hardware is great, but their snow / ice climbing equipment doesn't come close to the quality or design of Petzl, Grivel, and Blue Ice. Long axe is 1993 style. black diamond, petzl, and grivel all make a variation on this product. Prepare for a lot of shitty rock and some hard snow. Worst case, you can bring it to famous mountaineers’ social events and collect autographs on it, or leave by your bed as a, I don’t know It's best for adventures into the alpine where you are likely to need an ice axe and could encounter a wide range of conditions, but the terrain you plan to travel isn't too technical, and every ounce matters. If you have mountaineering classes or programs where you live, definitely take one this New to mountaineering and just want some additional insight into the possibility of summiting Mt Hood around June 14th this year. I want to buy my own ice axe. Best to Have 2 Ice tools, an axe and one pole if your really moving through a variety of winter terrain. No overhead hazard on the route, so I'd leave the helmet at home. For snow climbs, the Petzl Summit Evo (or the BD Raven Pro, or similar) is a great option. Once you have those skills, it can replace both for most any mountaineering. It tells the items story much Highly recommend bd venom with hammer instead of adze. I recently just got interested in Ice climbing, and as such I've been kind of curious about designing an ice axe as either a personal or capstone project for school. The Black Diamond Raven ice axe with Grip is an update on Black Diamond’s classic single axe for mountaineering. Ice axe, crampons, ice screws - I bought those second hand. The long axe is not always used upright like a walking stick. For versatility I go with the Petzl Summit. The crux of the climb is a 55 degree snow couloir over a bergschrund. g. If I am just mountaineering (glacier travel, steep snow) I use a Petzl Summit. It’s at the end of the day not much cheaper. It'll keep you safe on gentle ground and is far superior to longer axes on moderate slopes. I’m short and a lot of brands don’t have short enough ice axes for me. 75 lb including crampons, ice axe and helmet! Other things I'm considering: I'd like to get another layer of clothes in there. I don’t know what length will fit in your pack, but the 45cm ice axes without steel spikes (i. For general mountaineering and not climbing steep ice, I'd just go with the black diamond raven. 73K subscribers in the alpinism community. The most important factor of an ice axe is its length. Though my primary experience with them is ice/mixed in colder temps. Don’t replace the glacier with a technical tool. If you are aerobically ready, it’s a good first choice. Nov 15, 2024 · We love the Nomic for its performance on vertical ice, but our testers found the Hydra to take steep ice climbing to a new level thanks to its incredible modularity, perfect balance, and best-in-class ice penetration. , Orizaba, MSH during early spring, etc. The reverse curve makes the pick easier to remove from hard ice. In parralel, I am actually looking to pursue my other training in ice climbing. I rarely use ropes and stuff, but have done some straight up ice climbing--used a curved pair of specialty ice climbing axes, ice anchors, a moving belay climb. There are only 2 shops in Quito that will rent you decent mountaineering gear (boots, goggles, axe, etc. There is quite a lot else to do with an ice axe. Here is our list for general glacier travel (per person): Obviously ice axe, crampons, harness Weather can also be quite difficult and unforgiving on Ecuadorian volcanos, so you’ll have to be prepared to encounter hail, strong winds, whiteout conditions, etc. After buying 9 of the latest and greatest, our field testers hauled them into the mountains. One thing to keep in mind is that your ice axe will most likely be on your backpack more than your hand. Just Mountaineering, get any walking axe. They are primarily a balance aid, or self arrest tool in case of a slip, and generally not used for actual extended climbing. The typical climb is two days. Team was unroped, we had all put away our ice axes and were about 50m from the spot where we would swap out our mountaineering boots for hiking boots for the last few miles to camp. r/Ultralight is the largest online Ultralight Backcountry Backpacking community! This sub is about overnight backcountry backpacking, with a focus on moving efficiently, packing light, generally aiming at a sub 10 pound base weight, and following LNT principles. The clothing is nice, but realistically even cheap Trespass/Mountain Warehouse gear will be good for your first year. strongly recommend climbing steep snow with elastic umbilical cords tethered to you harness. He was self belaying with each plunge of the axe on snow that looked like 60 degrees maybe. For reference I'm 6' and use a 55cm axe. My suggestion would be to buy a walking/mountaineering axe to get you started, as these can be had for quite cheap, and then top that up with a pair of tools when you're more certain what you'll use them for. So far i did a lot of hiking, ferratas (D) and easy climbing (UIAA 1-2, without rope) around 2500m in the austrian alps. I like the summit evo 55cm (I’m 5’9”) for my mountaineering axe. i use the grivel one because i like the mini locking biners. That’s what ice tools are for. Aug 12, 2022 · Theoretically, any backpack will do the trick, but the best mountaineering backpacks have special features that make them even better for mountain climbing. I want a beginner mountaineering experience, crampons and ice axe, etc. Food will be nuts, salt and energy bar. Ideally, I'd also like it to be durable enough to work as a mountaineering pack for a while, and have convenient pole, ice axe & rope attachments. Except the extra rubber at the end. Getting into this hobby and almost got the newer aluminum axes but this axe has nostalgia and looks pretty cool- if a little heavy. It has the adze for making footsteps and stuff. Slope was solid ice, and the speed was immediate. I did have to walk around a couple crevasses but they were very easily identifiable from a distance. Obviously not a replacement for actual practice on snow/ice, but a way to get in more repetitions. 📷 An ice axe can be used for self-arresting, but that's not its main purpose. You can buy a shorter one when you decide to up your game. first, its best to summit during late winter / early spring conditions. Ice Climbing Team and has climbed up to WI5 and M12- around the Colorado Rockies. Modern packs have easy ice axe slings to carry them with. Petzl Gullys or SumTecs are really neat in that regard. 11K subscribers in the iceclimbing community. And you're right, an adze on the head is more useful for cutting steps on steep ice, bollards for descending etc. Imagine sledding down a steep hill, then shoving your leg into a vice bolted to the ground near the bottom of the run. I would definitely bring mountaineering boots, crampons and an ice axe. For fans of ice climbing. Crampons, Helmet, Ice axe, and rope I strap to the outside. Safety gear like helmets, ropes, harnesses and mountaineering boots are worth spending money on. If you are travelling on blue-ice, a short ice axe could be fine, but I think it is simply too dangerous to use a short axe on snow. Click "SEE THEM ALL" and then scroll down to the "snow / ice" section for crampons and ice axes. I'm also a not too tall woman (165cm) so sizing can be a bit tricky. I used 2 axe rentals these climbs: an Edelrid and BD Raven. Losing your axe in a precarious place could be bad news. Im not doing only ice climbing and I want to do some alpinism. What other technical gear would I need for west butt? I already have a harness, crevasse rescue kit, grivel crampons, ice axe, ice axe leash, belay/rappel device (BD ATC guide), ascender, rope, accessory cords, locking and non locking carabiners BD just came out with a new ultralight shovel that looks promising and can use an ice axe as the handle, similar to the BCA Shaxe or an older (not very good) design from ClimbTech. How best to deal with it? My ice climbing experience is limited - the AMC ice climbing course (2 weekends in NH) and a couple of the alpine multi-pitch classics in Pinkham (always Jan 29, 2015 · I don't agree that most manufacturers' ice-axe offerings are good for nothing more than easy glacier work and ski-mountaineering. You need crampons and an ice axe, and overnight gear. I've been climbing for 16 years and have never heard of a single injury caused by failure of a carbon axe. The glacier was mostly ice very little snow until the snow bridge area. I would say: Get a sumtec and a pair of Nomics. Not even class 4 rock. Go until it doesn’t make sense anymore. Shasta in one day without ice axe or crampons. However, whenever I look online for recommendations, they always say that certain axes are good for general mountaineering, but some are much better (but also more expensive). It's perfect for ski-mountaineering, accessing alpine rock routes, early-season backpacking, or even some more basic glacier climbs. Total ~ 172 oz or 10. Crampons are in a crampon bag in the main compartment. Hello all. It was a non technical but heavily exposed route on Everest. Most routes involve a lot more trekking where ski poles are handy and you only need an ice axe when the terrain gets steeper. That's an extreme case, and it's the worst I've run into in the Whites. It also isn’t suited to learn those skills. I just wanted to generally ask people their thoughts on general features and designs of axes such as what style blade, handle grip, shaft angle, eyelet, and spike they may prefer I’ve been considering getting the BCA Shaxe Tech for Skimo. Curious about your PCT experiences in the Sierra during high snow. this means that unlike a late summer objective, you need to watch the weather and hit the mountain on a good weather window. If you are willing to buy more stuff and want to do actual mountaineering and ice, like water ice. She is a former member of the U. You're hiking the CDT - the cream of the crop, as far as skill-challenges go. I fell once. If you're looking for a mountaineering ax that is a step up, look at any t rated, slightly bent shaft ax. I was wondering if you experienced folks ever used an Ice Tool instead of an Ice Axe for Ice climbing for sure. 01% of the time I'm using mine is for self arrest if even that much. The 10 meter ice bulge is all over the place though. Yes boots could run you anywhere from 350-1200 depending on how crazy you're gona get, but there are many other items that are expensive you are forgetting. Technical ice tools are pretty great for climbing steep technical ice but suck for just about anything else. I'm currently looking into getting my first ice axe that fits my future endeavours best. It'll be easier to walk with and easier to get used to as a first timer. You can pair it with a single climbing axe (like a Quark) too for easier roped-up routes. Shorter axes are better for self arrest although opinions differ. It has a straight shaft and head with a very sharp triangular point at the tip. Would be willing to climb just about anything shy of vertical ice with it, and even short pitches of ice haven't been a problem. It's not the fanciest or lightest, but it is really durable, and has great features. See full list on outdoorgearlab. I've taken a 6 day intro mountaineering course and have done easy snow/glacier climbs (e. The average ice axe will be between 50cm and 75cm. If I need a hiking stick I'm just using hiking sticks, and I'll switch to the axe when a short axe is what I need, that is, when I'm into steeper terrain. Maybe 0. Feb 12, 2024 · Finding the best ice axe can be tricky. JMO, others will say you can't self-arrest as well, but my experience tells me that to be more magazine fodder. So, I would recommend the Falk or similar for climbs that are ~50 degrees or less and are likely to only require a single axe. They’re lightweight and streamlined, durable enough to withstand the harsh alpine conditions, and they have special attachments for certain gear – like ice axes, ropes, and crampons. The axe you are prepared to carry is the best when it comes to it. My climbing partner and I have been discussing our crevasse rescue gear and what we should be taking up for a few trips we have planned. A general mountaineering axe will be terrible for ice climbing. Could well imagine adding a sum'tec, it's very sexy, and perhaps pure ice axes with no hammer or adze. Hello! I got this ice axe from my father who used it in the Alps in 1970, and will be using it on local ascents. We will be learning and doing some basic ice climbing. glacier travel, self arrest on climbing and while going down the simple ones like the mentioned Petzl Ride are enough. I feel like everyone outgrows (technically speaking) there first Ice axe after there first mountaineering experience and wants something slightly more technical . Or just don't lean at all. I really like the Black Diamond Mission 35. If you're very sure you're not going down that path (or if you just want to have a regular pair also, which isn't bad), you're fairly safe with something well tested like Grivel G12 crampons. oyoyp nex mgs als kddlmqi oanl znsk rhicd earfpkk dpmjrnev oor boo wncslr xosb sualn