Atc belay device What is the Best ATC Belaying Device in 2024? Here's a list of the Top 9 ATC devices for belaying based on our experiences and expertise. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. Even if you primarily rely on an assisted braking device like the Grigri above when belaying, it's important to have a backup—and ideally one that can be used for double Apr 24, 2020 · AOKWIT ATC Descender . The original Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller device debuted in 1993, designed by Chuck Brainerd, You’re not at a disadvantage per se. The Process. The auto locking feature when belaying your second directly off the anchor has another nifty capability: rope ascender. Brake assist belay devices offer a mechanical advantage to help the belayer to brake effectively. For the price, this device is a great value. It’s simple design made its debut in 1993, quickly becoming the most popular belay device on the market. The latest belay devices have an auto-braking system to assist the Jul 11, 2024 · Harkening back to the time-tested tube-style belay devices of old, the ATC-XP is a cheap and simple but entirely functional device for new and experienced climbers alike. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Regular price $49. New climbers can usually benefit from simple belay devices, such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide, to remove the number of variables they have to master. Here are the conclusions. Jan 4, 2024 · Tubular belay devices are sometimes generically referred to as ATC’s, owing to Black Diamond’s eponymous Air Traffic Control device that became the de facto standard belay device in the early 90s. 9 to 9mm. It’s very light, and it can be used for rappelling as well. I like to think I'm skilled with all of them. The most common type of belay device used in climbing today is a tubular belay device, aka ATC, which stands for “air traffic controller. It’s so widely used that its proper name has nearly taken over the entire genre. Jun 17, 2018 · Setting up the devices is exactly the same, with the rope going through just as you would an ATC with grooves. With both designs, you run the rope through the belay device and secure both the device and the rope through a locking carabiner (see photo). I’m talking about sport climbing, gym Mar 15, 2020 · Belay device / belay device with Carabiner . The best part is that this device only weighs 60 grams, practically nothing and you’ll be able to belay and rappel with it. Assisted braking devices like the GriGri are designed to clamp down on the rope to help the belayer arrest a fall, which can add a layer of security but some argue that the device can make the 5 days ago · Black Diamonds ATC devices are among the most reliable ATC belay devices for rappelling and are used by millions of climbers worldwide. The leader reaches the belay stance and builds an anchor with a master point. This classic design features a large surface area that dissipates heat when lowering or rappelling, and the smooth-handling geometry accommodates rope sizes from 7. The original ATC belay device worked just fine, but it didn’t provide enough friction when used with thin ropes, such as the 8mm ones that people use for ice climbing. The ATC is a belay tubular device created by Black Diamond. The ATC belay descender is suitable for 8 - 12mm single/double rope. Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking belay device, which means it can be used as both a traditional tube device and an assisted braking device when belaying the leader. 95 (105) 105 reviews with an average rating of 5. With the grigri you have to use both hands to lower, one on the device, and one on the rope. From the gym to the single-pitch crag to the high alpine, the variety of climbing styles is matched only by the variety of belay devices and techniques. Material: 7075 aviation aluminum . I trained with ATC and the switch is smooth and intuitive. However, after a few falls I became more anxious and no longer wanted my belayer to use an unassisted belay device in case he/she fainted, got hit by something or similar. ATC-Guide Belay Device. Outdoor is the pursuit of adventure with the whole body to relax, and "ENJOY SPORTS, ENJOY OUTDOORS ADVENTURES" aims to provide convenience for your outdoor adventures. Providing an added level of security to your belay, the ATC Pilot threads similarly to other tubular belay devices and accommodates ropes from 8. Related Questions: What is the Best Rappel Device for Climbing? An ATC is the most popular belay device for climbing, but that doesn’t mean it’s the best. It's frequently on Jan 16, 2016 · ATC-XP belay/rappel device ; Mini Pearabiner screwgate carabiner ; High friction mode on ATC-XP offers 3 times greater hold and stopping power than regular friction mode Apr 13, 2025 · The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device is the original ATC. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. Simply pull the brake strands through as the climber moves up. Sale price $49. A toothless tube option is available, too, as the classic Black Diamond ATC. May 14, 2015 · The primary way belay devices get worn out is using them to rappel. 7 mm to 11 mm. There are two types of assisted braking belay devices. Follow along with Gearheads Alex Quitiquit and Nils Mindnich as they dive into three of their favorite Dec 5, 2024 · The Giga Jul is the most versatile belay device on the market, by far. The only downside is it is a little more "slippery" than true cam- auto-break devices. ATC stands for Air Traffic Control. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the belay device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. Many climbing gyms have guests use the Petzl Grigri, one of the premier assisted braking Sep 20, 2021 · HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST BELAY DEVICES BELAY DEVICE STYLE . May 28, 2024 · Fortunately, the newer belay devices are beginning to accept a wider range of rope diameters, which means that it's easier to bypass any potential rope diameter issues. 13 Kilograms : Item Dimensions LxWxH 4 x 2 x 1 inches : Brand Name 6 days ago · Having a great belay device is an essential aspect when climbing. Petzl offers a wide selection of descenders and innovative belay devices designed for all vertical activities. 1 inches : Package Weight 0. The durable steel braking surface has no movin Dec 22, 2022 · When climbers imagine belay devices, they are bound to think of the Petzl Grigri and Black Diamond ATC. Jan 16, 2019 · Belaying directly from the anchor with a plaquette style belay device like an ATC Guide has one significant drawback - it's difficult to lower your second if you need to. 7mm to 11mm, this simple but functional device handles belaying and rappelling with kink-free ease. A single rope geometry assisted belay device with enhanced braking, the ATC Pilot introduces a system that provides an added level of security to your belay, How to Belay With an ATC Belay Device: Pull, Brake, Under, Slide! Belaying is fun, but dangerous. Tubular Belay Devices – Tubular belay devices are the most versatile and the most popular belay devices out there, as they can be used for pretty much any activity involving climbing. Made from quality, durable materials, Mammut Belay Devices are built to withstand the rigors of the mountains. The oval-ized anchor-ho Oct 1, 2021 · The Air Traffic Controller is the classic climbing belay device that most climbers have used at some point. 10% lighter than its predecessor with improved feeding and pulling in guide mode, the versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling. Jul 16, 2014 · Please read all manufacturer’s directions and information before using any device. The ATC-XP is relegated to the gym or as a rap device when I TR solo. 50 delivery Aug 16 - 29 Belay Devices And Descenders. However, if you want the versatility of belaying one or two followers, stick with a tube device with guide mode. Jan 7, 2019 · AOKWIT Professional 25KN Rappel ATC Belay Device Aluminum V-grooved Rock Climbing Belay Device Rappelling Descender Safety Equipment 4. (You can also compare the GriGri and ATC to other top belay devices in our belay device buying guide. May 3, 2025 · What is an ATC A Black Diamond ATC is a belay and rappel device made by the gear manufacturer, Black Diamond Equipment. It’s inevitable because the Grigri and ATC are tried and true powerhouses in every style of climbing, from sport climbing indoors to traditional multi-pitch rock climbing outside. It has no moving parts, but some people find it easier to control than a simple figure 8 device due to its angle and the greater distance that the loop allows it to sit from your harness without other special extending gear. 0 out of 5 stars. Color: Orange. ATC-XP belay/rappel device; Includes a locking carabiner (color may differ from image) High friction mode on ATC-XP offers 3 times greater hold and stopping power than regular friction mode Feb 22, 2020 · Top Rope Belay With an ATC belay device. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8. In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. Aug 22, 2016 · To be clear, there are other belay devices. It was a simple device made of a metal plate and a rope bit slot. 0:54 . 41 x 1. It is possible to dynamically belay both leader and the second, while the second can be belayed by tope rope belay either with the body or from top belay station. But with this Crafty Rope Trick, it's no problemo - all you need is some LSD. The most common alternative to the ATC is an auto-locking belay device. The grigri is over hyped. On the other hand, assisted-braking belay devices (ABD) are more commonly used in sport climbing and gym climbing. 5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6. Lightweight, single-rope version of ATC-XPDesigned for sport craggingDual friction Designed for the smaller rope diameters of fast-and-light alpine missions, the 73g Black Diamond ATC-Alpine Guide belay device is an ultralight, compact version of the award-winning ATC-Guide. The rappel device is smooth and lightweight, useful for your outdoor sports but not increase any burden, portable enough to carry anywhere Mar 15, 2023 · Stoked for climbing season? Let’s chat belay devices. This innovative design minimizes rope abrasion during descent, effectively preventing rope entanglement and knots. I had no problem with my belayers having either an ATC or an assisted braking device such as Grigri, ATC pilot etc as long as the belayer feels safe and competent. Nov 17, 2023 · An ATC belay device is perhaps the most versatile piece of climbing gear in existence. May 24, 2018 · Yundxi 25KN Rappel ATC Belay Device Go outside and be close to the nature is that why Yundxi exist. when used correctly an ATC is a time-tested, effective device. Built to handle ropes ranging in diameter from 7. ATC Jul 15, 2010 · When I belay I usually use a grigri but I also have an ATC. Is there any benefit to using a figure 8 as opposed to tubular belay devices or a locking assist belay device? Thanks Sep 14, 2020 · A few tube style or ATC belay devices – The update of the original ATC is on the left though teethed devices are much more common nowadays A tube-style device is a simple device that relies on friction and always requires one hand to be on the rope. Whether you are belaying a leader in assisted-brake mode, rappelling down long routes with two ropes, or belaying a follower from above, this device performs every task that a belay device is ever asked to do. Black Diamond ATC BELAY DEVICE at Next Adventure! Often copied but never equaled, the Black Diamond ATC provides lightweight and durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere. $39. The ATC is a friction-based belay and rappel device that uses bends in the rope and contact with the devices surface to increase friction, which then allows for much easier slowing down or stopping of the rope from moving through the device. Giga Jul is the answer. Fits Rope Mar 27, 2024 · Often copied but never equaled, the Black Diamond ATC provides lightweight and durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere. Yes. Apr 13, 2016 · A burly, ultra-light, do-it-all belay device There’s a reason you can just say “ATC,” and every climber will know you mean a tube-style belay/rappel device. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. Passive devices pinch the rope between a carabiner and the belay device to stop it from sliding through. When I teach people to belay I always have them learn on an ATC as I’ve seen too many climbers depending on the assisted braking of other devices, leading them to do unsafe things like take their hands off the brake strand without tying off the belay. Aug 26, 2021 · ATC. Enjoy long-lasting performance, year after year. These devices are especially useful when you are belaying someone on a project (a route that is very difficult for the climber) and catching lots of falls. 7 out of 5 stars Step into the foot-loop and stand up, taking the weight off your belay device. Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device. 09 $1. I only used this method once, and it worked well, but it’s nowhere near as safe as a conventional belay device. 7-10. Both, GriGri and ATC belay devices are designed to allow a person to climb a rope from one spot to another, and they are also designed to allow the person to rappel down the rope and be belayed. I try to pick the device depending on what I'm doing. Sorta like how you can ask for a “Coke” and people know you mean soda. A number of accidents have occurred in recent years due to climbers learning to belay with mechanically assisted devices like GriGris, and forgetting basic principles like always keeping a hand on the brake strand. Feb 25, 2025 · A highly versatile and durable belay and abseil device designed to provide climbers with enhanced braking power and control, the Black Diamond ATC-XP builds upon the design of the standard Black Diamond ATC, offering additional features that improve both safety and usability. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. With the rappel rope anchored in at the top, grasp the rope and make a small loop. It provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest, just like active-assisted brake devices. The other day, I was top rope climbing indoors and there was so much tension while my partner and I were lowering each other that he flipped his ATC the other way ("teeth up") to make the lowering process smoother. Black Diamond ATC, Petzl Verso, etc), but they require the same belay technique. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. Feb 19, 2015 · Most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond act-guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. ATC-XP - If you put the brake side of the rope through the teeth, you get some extra friction, if you put it through the non-teeth side, you get the same friction as an ATC. The ATC-Guide Climbing Belay Rappel Device by Black Diamond is lightweight and easy to use offering smooth handling while you are climbing to your greatest h Dec 6, 2016 · Atc-Pilot Belay Device : Item Weight 0. The ATC-XP comes with an asymmetric design, as one of its sides generates considerably more friction than the other. Dedicated belay devices can be auto-locking or self-locking, officially called an "assisted braking devices" (ABD), meaning that they do not allow the rope to pay out quickly in the event of a fall, unless the Device threads similarly to other tubular belay devices and accommodates ropes from 8. A much better way to learn than learning an assisted belay method to start with a specialist belay device, which then means you never have the right technique for any other situation in the future. Sep 21, 2023 · Many people still belay with non-assisted braking devices like the ATC-XP. Reviews of the 3 Other Belay Devices We Tested Edelrid Dec 21, 2015 · ATC-XP belay/rappel device (color may differ from image) Includes a locking carabiner (color may differ from image) Versatile design accepts ropes from 7. The ATC is a belay device used by a person on the ground – the belayer – to manage the rope attached to the climber and catch Nov 28, 2018 · Our most versatile belay and rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Moreover, in the case of the seconding climber belay from top rope belay we can use self-locking feature of this belay device. Ease of use. It is a tube style belay device without any special teeth for functionality to assist in braking. I own an ATC-XP, ATC-Guide, springless Sticht plate, GriGri, CT-Alpine Up, a chain link and various homemade belay devices. 5mm in diameter, which accommodates most single ropes. 09 $ 16 . 12oz . 95 USD Regular price $49. 7mm to 11mm. To set up the auto-blocking device, she just needs two locking biners and the belay device; at least one of the biners needs to have a smooth and rounded shape with no edges. Known for being versatile and lightweight, REVERSO is a belay device for single or multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. The updated Reverso is a few grams lighter (57 g vs the Reverso 4's 63 g) and has some cosmetic changes, such as a flat top and rounded edges, which Petzl says is part of a design to increase durability and longevity of the device. Step 3 Connect your belay loop to the auto-block hole on your belay device with a screwgate. XINDA Professional Rappel ATC Belay Device Aluminum 25KN Descender Outdoor Camping & Hiking Rock Climbing Equipment. Not all belay devices are suitable for every type of climb. The ATC . In this video Kerry Lee shows you how to correctly set up your belay using an ATC. A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. The most simple dedicated belay devices are manual friction device, such as a basic belay plate or Sticht plate, or "ATC" devices. 95 USD. ATC-XP Belay Device – Black Diamond Jul 8, 2021 · The ATC is the basic form of a belay device, however, there are other types of devices out there that are widely used by climbers. If that’s you, check out our side-by-side comparison of the two devices. Keep the climber close to your heart, set up your lead belay the right way. Feb 22, 2020 · Black Diamond also makes our Top Pick for multi-pitch climbing, the ATC Guide. Value. 13 Kilograms : Closure Type Snap : Special Feature Lightweight, Durable : UPC 793661323129 : Manufacturer Black Diamond Equipment : Item Package Dimensions L x W x H 6. ATC-Guide Belay Device 6 days ago · The Best Belay Device. Because of its large size, the RockLock might not be the best for multi-pitch, when you want to keep things small and light, but it as an excellent choice for gym climbing or single-pitch cragging. There are many benefits. The durable steel braking surface has no movin A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. and learn how to lead belay using a tube-style belay device also known as an ATC. Jul 17, 2021 · Join StoneMan Climbing Co. This classic tube style has gone from THE STANDARD throughout the 90’s / early 2010’s to uncommon by the 2020’s. It can be used for belaying and rappelling, can incorporate one or two rope strands, and accommodates a variety of rope sizes. The Pilot is simple, light, and perfect for what it does. Jan 14, 2019 · Auto locking plaquette-style belay devices (such as the DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso) have become pretty much standard gear. This Instructable is for reference purposes only, and is not meant to replace in- person training from a rock climbing professional. The top of the ATC device will have the friction modes and the bottom will have the ATC loop facing Nov 17, 2023 · An ATC is the simplest modern belay device, so it’s the best way to teach a new climber the basics of belaying and rappelling. Caving, mountaineering, multi-pitch, cragging, canyoning, each activity has its device. With an ATC, the first step is to bend the rope into what’s known as a “bight” - a curve in the rope that does not cross itself (if it did, it’d be called a loop!). Jan 3, 2024 · The ATC climbing device, which stands for Air Traffic Control, is a tube-style belay device, usually with two holes and a plastic-wrapped loop of braided wire connected to the underside. The more advanced the device, the higher the price- though any of them are relatively affordable. Slide the loop into the top of the Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) along one side of the middle divide on the device. It secures a climber as they are going up or down the wall. Atc guide or reverso 3. $12. Some ATC-style belay devices have a 'guide mode' function - they can be set up in a way which locks automatically if a climber falls. Dec 10, 2016 · AOKWIT Professional 25KN Rappel ATC Belay Device Aluminum V-grooved Rock Climbing Belay Device Rappelling Descender Safety Equipment 4. A good belay (rappel) device is like having a good car. Get a device with autoblock mode for multipitch. Our Belay Devices cater to a variety of climbing adventures and techniques, featuring innovative designs that deliver smooth, efficient rope handling and precise control. For more details about different types of belay devices, check out How to Choose Belay Devices. 7 to 11mm in diameter, making it suitable for everything from sport cragging to ice climbing; Imported. Professional 25KN Rappel ATC Belay Device,Climbing Abseiling Belay Device,ATC Guide Belay Device Rock Climbing Descender,V grooved Micro Rescue Guide Belay Device $16. Lead Belay Both devices are a bit difficult to lead belay with the first time, but get more intuitive with use. BRAKE ASSIST. It is also very versatile - it can be turned into an ATC and used as anchor belay device; auto-break on rappel; and double ropes. Breaking Strength: 25kN (2500kg) Weight: 60g/2. Tubular ATC belay device. ” An ATC is actually one specific model created by Black Diamond, but it has become the mainstream term for tubular, just like a bandage is known as a Band-Aid and tissues are often called Kleenex. com Learn how to set up, belay and lower with an ATC, a type of tubular aperture belay device. However, the climbing world is slowly phasing out this style of belay device, much like figure-8 belay devices. The reverso takes more effort to belay in auto block mode on thicker, stiffer less supple ropes. 5 out of 5 stars 230 2 offers from $1499 $ 14 99 I like using the ATC (Reverso 4) for a number of reasons, I like having a free hand when I'm lowering so that I can take out any kinks or twists in the rope as they get close to the belay device, this results in an ultra-smooth lower. It can also handle a variety of rope sizes. The specific design allows the rope to glide smoothly through the device and reduces wear. The result is a compre Alpine ATC-Guide Belay Device The lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot represents an advance in technology for the world of assisted braking devices. An ATC, which originally stood for “air traffic controller”, refers to any tubular belay device. 99. Dec 5, 2024 · The Right Device for the Climb. See full list on climbinghouse. 4. For more detailed information and instruction, we recommend learning from a certified mountain guide. Nov 16, 2018 · TRIWONDER ATC Belay Device V-grooved Micro Rescue Guide Belay Device Rock Rappelling 183. Feb 21, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “geometry assisted” belay device for ropes in the 8. Nov 3, 2020 · ATC Belay Devices If you’re asking what is an ATC , it is one of the most common belay devices used in rock climbing. An earlier variation of the ATC-type device is known as a Sticht plate, which basically swaps the tube for a plate that the rope wraps through in a Apr 26, 2022 · Understand the differences between all Belaying Devices and Learn how to use any of them Safely and Efficiently. 5mm; Durable steel braking surface has no moving parts; smooth and secure control allows for gradual lowering Even when using a self-braking belay device, you should always keep your brake hand on the rope. A single rope geometry assisted belay device with enhanced braking, the ATC Pilot introduces a system that provides an added level of security to your belay, while allowing for smooth rope payout. The guide takes a little more effort to control speed on rappel (at least for me @ 200lb Feb 21, 2020 · We examine nine devices capable of auto-block mode in our review, and we recommend that you choose one of those instead if you intend to do much multi-pitching, as this feature is very nice in those situations. Feb 21, 2020 · Reverso 4 vs. Easy to feed rope out and nice to belay you can feel the ridges helping to slow down the climber on decent. ) Dec 21, 2015 · This requires a standard belay method which teaches you good belay technique for any style of device In the future. See the variations, anatomy and symbols of different ATCs and follow the step by step guide with illustrations. ATC Setup for a Rappel. Needless to say, that there are several brands and models out there, but they are all essentially, all the same. They can be used as a normal belay device too. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. Belaying is normal for both, but the BD definitely has more friction pulling the rope through. Dec 11, 2016 · A basic top roping skill. This device is similar to the ATC XP but with the ability to belay a follower from above directly off an anchor. Jun 18, 2024 · While both the Black Diamond ATC and ATC-Guide are tube-style belay/rappel devices, key distinctions set the ATC-Guide apart. Dec 21, 2010 · Often copied but never equaled, the Black Diamond act provides lightweight and durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere. e. Dec 6, 2016 · The lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot represents an advance in technology for the world of assisted braking devices. Advantages: Aug 6, 2021 · To put these devices to the test so I could shed insight on these questions, I climbed up all kinds of single pitch and multipitch climbs, indoor and outdoor, trad and sport, long and short. As with other assisted braking belay devices, the ATC Pilot is intended to make catching and holding falls easier than with a standard tube-style device. I like my GriGri for more casual climbing, but the ATC style devices are more versatile and lightweight. Aug 24, 2018 · The ATC Pilot is Black Diamond’s assisted belay device, introduced last year. I've owned and used both quite a bit. . How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rop The lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot represents an advance in technology for the world of assisted braking devices. Mar 7, 2019 · The ATC is the most commonly used type of belay device, and so the model name of ATC has become synonymous with tubular belay devices, much like Kleenex standing for facial tissues. Jan 24, 2022 · Elisa Climbs wrote: While using an ATC belay device, I was taught "teeth down" when I first got into climbing. Feb 12, 2024 · The device’s machined window makes it lighter than the original ATC-Guide belay device and its durable, hot-forged aluminium construction will last you ages. Alpine ATC-Guide Belay Device. Once the belayer has their harness on properly and the rope is flaked and ready to go, it’s time to load the belay device. MATERIAL - Made of 7075 aviation aluminum, our belay device features high strength, good toughness and great portability. The ATC is a dynamic belay device. Make sure to keep hold of both brake ropes as you do this. Black Diamond also enlarged the auto-block Release hole to accept a small carabiner. The more mud, dirt and bad weather the device sees the sooner it will need replacing. 9 to 9mm Best Device for Rappelling and Belaying: The Sterling ATS Rappel/Belay device Best for First Time / Infrequent Users: Black Diamond ATC or Figure 8 Below, I talk a little bit about why it’s useful to buy a device specifically for canyoneering, and then I go in to more detail about why I chose the devices that I did. Machined window through the body lightens up the device; ATC-XP weighs 64g Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes; Black Diamond ATC-XP belay device accepts ropes from 7. ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering. Mar 15, 2020 · About this item . Assisted braking belay devices automatically lock down on the rope to help the belayer catch a climber’s fall. Users find rappelling easy with this device, and with all its perks it doesn’t even break the bank! Often copied but never equaled, the Black Diamond ATC provides lightweight and durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere. This extra friction isn't really necessary, people used tube style devices for a long time with no issue. Here you can see how to do a redirected belay with a self-braking belay device (the ATC Guide is being used here): Watch from 0:00 to 2:23 Nov 28, 2018 · Multiple friction modes for belay and rappel Auto-block release hole accepts small carabiners Optimized for ropes between 8. 99 $ 12. My favorite belay device I've ever used was an old sticht plate. 1 and 8. The most significant difference lies in the ATC-Guide’s inclusion of a second, strategically placed attachment point, enabling its Guide Mode for efficient multi-pitch belaying. 7–10. Active devices have moving parts whereas passive devices don’t. Reverso. It pays out rope smoothly but doesn’t bite down as strongly as other assisted belay devices on the market. Sit your weight onto your now auto-blocked belay device. 00:00 Intro02:07 Tube Style Devices06:00 Assi Feb 22, 2020 · There are a variety of tubular belay device designs on the market today (i. It can handle ropes from a diameter of 7. 1OZ, an ultra-light, compact and easy-to-use V-grooved belay device with teethed channel, ideal choice for you climbers to lighten rack. Aug 16, 2007 · The Cinch belay device is no exception. Two friction modes offer optimal stopping power while lowering your partner, and the versatile design accepts a wide range of rope sizes from 7. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. 2. The ATC is virtually the most basic belay device you can find these days, if not the cheapest as well. The belayer is easily able to catch a falling climber when using the device because of the friction created as the rope is shaped into a tight s-bend. Name: ATC belay device . It allows you to belay your climbing partner, rappel, and use Reverso mode to belay one or two seconds. Since our test period, Petzl has released an updated model of this device, simply called the Reverso (the model we tested was the Reverso 4). We really expected the newer devices with friction grooves to blow this old school model away but we were impressed with how the ATC pays out climbing rope as well, and maybe better, than many of the newer models. It costs very little and last a long time. Jan 15, 2018 · The ATC Pilot weighs only 86g (making it one of the lightest assisted braking devices available) and it accepts ropes from 8. You simply insert the bight of your rope through one open slot, then clip a locking carabiner through the loop and attach it to the belay loop on your harness. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. 7 to 11 mm ; Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. 5 mm half ropes in a high fall factor situation from a full size ATC or Reverso, especially if clipping the two strands separately. 5 mm range. Accordingly, lots of climbers in the market for a belay device wonder whether to buy a GriGri or an ATC. Others have their preferences for similar designs from other brands, but I am pretty confident more mountains have been climbed with the ATC guide than any other. Oct 1, 2020 · The RockLock has rounded edges to provide smooth feeding of the rope, especially when you’re using an ATC or tube-style belay device. It is the original model and has beauty in its simplicity. Design with 0. 4cm rubber wire rope, the guide belay device is easy to store and easy to operate. This is a fundamental skill needed to become an Its construction is based on the early Sticht plate. Dec 13, 2023 · Manual braking belay devices like the ATC require the belayer to be at the top of their game, never removing their hand from the brake line while in use. I don't like being belayed on 8 mm or 8. Video: How to Belay a Lead Climber ATC - the standard tube style belay device. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. You can set up guide mode as shown, with one rope or two. The Petzl Verso isn't the cheapest belay device on the market but it is one of the cheapest in this review. Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. Apr 27, 2021 · The GriGri and ATC (either the ATC-XP or the original ATC) are the belay devices we see most often at the gym. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. Sticht Plate was the first belay device that applied for a patent in 1970. Regular The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. 95 Unit price / per . 9 14 Reviews ౹ 61 sold. Rappeling will wear a device much faster than belaying. This video teaches you how to attach your rope to your belay device and harness. Black Diamond ATC Belay Device They say imitation is the most sincere form of flattery, which is why you won't find the Black Diamond ATC griping about the wannabes. Add ATC-XP Belay Device to Compare . Dec 16, 2022 · The best belay device for multi-pitch climbing is an auto-blocking belay device when the device is set up in guide mode, such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzl Grigri. Nov 28, 2018 · Had my previous DMM bug belay device for 10 years wanted a new device Read the reviews and decided to buy this o stead of a GriGri, I have made a really good choice, lovely belaying on lead climbing the device feels really well put together. Many companies and manufacturers have created their own version of the tube-style device, but among the most popular are the Black Diamond ATC Guide, the Petzl Jan 14, 2025 · For the few pennies extra which it costs I prefer to have a dedicated belay device for half ropes, and for that my favourite is the ATC Alpine Guide (the green one). 5 out of 5 stars 231 2 offers from $1519 $ 15 19 Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above. 7 to 10. Although for many years the Petzl GRIGRI has been the autolocking* belay device of choice, Trango, taking advantage of the fact that the GRIGRI has remained essentially unchanged for over a decade, makes a strong entry into the market with its innovative design. Jan 22, 2019 · BLACK DIAMOND ATC Belay Device for Rock Climbing and Rappelling. Note that belaying a lead climber is quite different between a tubular and a brake-assist device, so you need to learn and master the technique for your device. 22 x 4. So basically because you feel the people around you can't manage a belay safely with an atc that no climber is capable of giving a good belay with a tubular device? Look dude, when it comes down to it, a grigri is just a fancy tubular device, they can and have failed; bad belay technique with a grigri is just as dangerous as it is with a Jul 11, 2012 · Enhanced Safety Assurance: Elevate your safety with theFusion high-strength ATC V-grooved belay device featuring toothed channels. Black Diamond ATC XP Belay Device Sep 19, 2017 · A superlight belay device designed for sport cragging and gym use, the Black Diamond ATC-Sport is a simplified, single-rope version of our ATC-XP. Feb 13, 2010 · The ATC is the second smallest and lightest belay device tested, the first being the Petzl Verso, which is more expensive. Top Rated. ATC belay devices are the most versatile, as they are suitable for any type of rope climbing and can also be used for rappelling. 5mm. We cover lead belay with a tubular device in this article. This is a metal tube, a few inches in diameter, that is divided into two openings and comes with a wire attachment loop. The Black Diamond ATC and ATC-XP are very similar in design and function and are both incredibly easy to use. aoumpjtugfkudgxjrpzhvczmtdasdxehapcvzvmtufxoitbmqvmbotmjmdfutbifcagmxiktumltponyji